East Estonian Adventure Photos

East Estonian Adventures

March 5: Trip to East Estonia

I am currently as sick as is humanly possible for a person with a cold. But, that's never stopped me before so why would it stop me now? In that light, yesterday I piled into a rental car with three good friends and proceeded to drive to the very edge of Estonia. I literally stood at the banks of the Narva River and looked at Russia. I said, "Hello, Russia. How are ya?". How cool is that?? This trip was much better than the South Estonia one and I think I've identified the problem. Too many people, for too long, make my teeth itch. That's right. My teeth itch.

I've always been a lover and simultaneously, a hater of the "roadtrip". This time though, I pumped myself full of Gravol and was determined to enjoy myself and live up to my imagined standard of the concept. It worked. We stopped where we wanted, got lost a few times, and really, really enjoyed ourselves. On the way to Narva we stopped twice, once to try to find a waterfall, and secondly to successfully find a waterfall. Why a waterfall you ask? Well, only because it was frozen solid. Very impressive looking, I tell you. I almost died on the stairs though. They were treacherous. Sorry, Kevin, about the hot chocolate on your jacket. That's what you get for walking in front of me.

After the waterfall we eventually got to Narva. Narva is a small town mostly comprised of Russians, which is situated closer to St. Petersburg than to Tallinn. It sits on the bank of the Narva River which separates Estonia from Russia (at least this part) and at the same time joins them by a so called "Friendship Bridge" which appears, incidentally, on the 5 kroon note. The fortifications on the Estonian side of the river have become a very interesting museum that we took in before moving on to see more parts of the town. We also had a nice photoshoot next to Lenin. He was a bit overbearing, wasn't he?

On our way to see a statue of a Swedish Lion, we saw a few limos and some commotion. Upon closer examination, a wedding party was taking their photos next to the tourist attraction we wanted to see. So, we took ten minutes and crashed their party. It only made sense, it was our tourist attraction, too. Giggling away, we then explored some interesting churches, one of which happened to be having it's Lenten service. It happened to be the Russian Orthodox service and let me just say, that it was creepy with a capital "C". All and only lit with numerous red glass encased candles, and with nobody sitting, just standing with heads bowed listening to the Priest utter very quickly in Latin, it was a scene I will never forget. Very surreal. At this point, it's snowing rapidly and getting dark so we decide to hit the road.

Our last stop was a town called "Rakvere" which is quite small but very lovely. I feel like the worst kind of crap and elect not to get out and see castle ruins that I can see perfectly well from the car. But I do decide to go into a pub and get a hot chocolate when the occasion arises. We stay for a while, say that this little town merits further exploration at a later date, and head back to pass in the rental.

After some adventures getting gas, we successfully returned the vehicle and I am safe at home after a day well spent on the road. I hope to do this sort of excursion again. It was worth every penny spent and every minute on the road.

And It Continues...

March 4

Now this is an event an a half. Are you ready? Are you?? I bet you're not. But I guess I'll tell you anyway. I got to visit the Estonian PARLIAMENT! That's right, the Estonian seat of power, democracy, and freedom. I had shivers. I did, I swear. I love, love, loved it. This is what I have wanted to do since I got here. I walk home past the buildings every time I leave the city centre but hadn't yet been inside. So, upon hearing there would be an event where we would visit Parliament, I was the first to sign up.

Estonian democracy is of the highest standard. It's ranked fifth of the most democratic countries in the world, is very progressive, and generally functions very well. Estonia has had so few opportunities in its history to govern itself that in 1991 when they gained their independence they jumped at the chance to do it properly. They use a proportional representation system that is perfect for them since they are a small country with mixed views, and they have a sort of coalition government. They even have seats for Green party members, a touchy subject for any Canadians who vote Green as our system doesn't allow their direct participation in our political system without seats (which they don't have). But, enough of that. I'll tell you now about the inside of the buildings.

The Estonian parliament is built in several different styles from several different time. It's highly recognizable because part of it is in a castle, and the other most visible part in the front, is very pink. The inside has been built to symbolize Estonian national pride and freedom. From the colours right down to the interior mouldings. The chamber where members sit is bright blue with black doors and a white-ish ceiling as represented on the Estonian flag. The ceiling, stairways and walls all have decorative zigzags which are also symbols of Estonian independence. It makes for quite an eclectic looking arrangement. So, so, different from the Canadian buildings which tend to err towards the side of regal rather than quirky. I like it though, it's more appealing than the stiffness of the Canadian buildings.

After a guided tour, and some fun outside the chamber where members wait (if you stand in one corner of the room and even just whisper, the sound travels to the other corner. It's meant to symbolize that no secrecy is allowed in the parliament) we had a visit with a member of parliament whose name currently escapes me but who had lots and lots to say about Estonian government and its problems, all of which I won't recount to you now but which was very interesting. The highlights were that Estonia is having some integration problems with it's Russian population, has the same women's equality problems that we experience in Canada, and has very little debt, making its ascension into the Eurozone imminent.

Best trip ever. Felt like home. Pathetic? Maybe, but don't judge me. I just really like getting my politic on.

Sincerest Apologies

So, I very definitely suck. I have harboured (unintentionally, of course) a series of about nine blog posts in the safety of my desktop where they remained unedited for the last month and half or so. BUT! I have traded my lazy hat for my editor's hat and now, (drumroll, please) I present to you the product of my tiny existence in a foreign country. I will post chronologically so as not to confuse when these events took place.

February 26-28: South Estonia Trip

This trip was painful. Very, very, painful. I have never felt so alone as I have felt on this small, weekend excursion and I could not give you a good reason as to why. But out of the fog of my sour mood I can relate to you some of the happenings on this trip that should have been, if not for my humour, quite interesting.

We boarded the bus in the afternoon and started heading south towards Tartu, a university town, where we stopped briefly for drinks, as we continued on to our destination. It was dark and I was bus sick and now I have no idea where that destination was actually located. I can, however, tell you that once we got there, it was a very good night. The place was a rest lodge in the middle of what I perceived as nowhere, which was a nice setup. Mostly a long wooden cabin with bunks and a dining hall on the main floor. The dinner was delicious and the company on that first night was exceptional. The best bit, by far, was the sauna. I had never been to a sauna before and so, despite my Winterized (aka flabby, white, generally unprepared for public view) bikini body, I pulled mine on and off I went. Of course, as per Estonian tradition, when in a sauna, one must get as hot as possible and then take a run and jump into the snow. And so I did. And I liked it. Afterwards, I was covered in pine needles and my face was uncomfortably hot and red (and remained that way for the whole night) but, so what? All for the sake of having fun. The rest of the evening was spent dancing and drinking with friends and trying to sleep while the belligerently drunk were still up and shouting. As all should be.

The next day, I woke up on the wrong side of the bed. Which sounds ridiculous because in a bunk next to a wall there is only one possible side of the bed, but, nonetheless, I woke up on the wrong one. The worst one. The whole day is a haze of crank. We got up and ate a small breakfast and then we re-boarded the bus. We stopped at a park where we proceeded to take a small hike into the woods to see some natural rock formations that used to be a place of worship in the area. There were holes in the cliff side, embedded in the rock, and some caves where water was streaming through. According to our tour guides the water flowing here is very pure and drinkable right from the source. The scenery was beautiful and when looking at my photos later, I realized that I had in fact enjoyed that part of the trip. I've always liked hiking and this was no exception. The day was spent largely in various parks looking at different kinds of Estonian scenery, until later in the afternoon.

Later that day, after a bit more driving, we found ourselves in an historical representation on a traditional Seto farmstead. The Seto people are traditional Estonians whose culture has survived a long history of domination so that they still can bestow upon the viewing public, and enjoy themselves, their traditions and language. They speak a slightly different dialect of Estonian which made it difficult for our guides to translate directly. We toured through the farmstead and ate a traditional meal (I'm using the word traditional a lot, I know, but really, that's what it was), and then a group of Seto women graced us with some singing from the area in traditional (sorry) costume. This was ok until they made me dance. That was not ok. Not ok at all.

After that is where it all gets a bit hazy. We got back on the bus and proceeded to Forest Brothers farm. The Forest Brothers are what the locals call men who were evading and fighting the Russians by living in the woods. Some lived in the woods for the better part of their lives, unable to see their families and denied the comforts that we North Americans have enjoyed during our lives. This particular farms had several bunkers in which to hide and belongs now to a woman whose family had owned the farm since its existence and thus, lived under the occupation. She recollected stories of her community that were truly moving. This part of the day was not lost on me. We were able to see inside the bunkers and partook in the drinking of local vodka (aka moonshine). This is the hazy bit. I had a bit too much of said vodka and elected to sit out the rest of the evening. Woops.

The next day was, how shall I say, difficult. I was very grateful that it was the last day of the trip. I really didn't feel well, really needed a shower, and really didn't want to get back on the bus. But I did. We went first to the highest hill in South Estonia and then to a Poku house (the Estonian equivalent of a Smurf shrine) where a famous Estonian writer's books and characters came to life. It would take a person with more patience than I to tell you completely about Poku's and their origins, but suffice it to say, they are rather like Smurf's but without the blue and with lots of hair.

That was the end of the South Estonian adventure and I can say unashamedly that I spent the next week as a hermit in my apartment. I had had enough of people for a few days. Better luck next time, I guess.

The Morning After

After every big blow-out comes the morning after, where eyes are blurry, heads are aching and of course the repercussions of the night before become starkly evident. However, for me and the others participating in the last nights festivities, the next morning is reserved for pancakes. It has become a weekly ritual (if not more often) that a crowd of booze-weary students crawl from the Academic Hostel to the cafe next door in order to drown our sorrows in several varieties of stuffed crepes. This morning's version: mushroom and blue cheese for Kevin and I, honey for Marielle, and ham and cheese for Szymon.

Writer's Block

I am suffering from vicious writer's block, hence the lack of blog. I sit at the computer screen and my eyes sort of go cross eyed and then all of a sudden it's four hours later and I've written a sentence. But nevertheless, here I am about to attempt to relate to you bits and pieces of my life in the former Soviet Union. I've settled into my apartment and classes have allowed a sort of routine to settle in around me, rather like dust. I have Estonian, Russian and Constitution of the European Union which deals primarily with shared and individual competencies of government and the terms of constitutional law. You know you have problems when that is the class that I have dreamed of taking since realizing that I really like politics. Is your nerd radar working? Because it should be beeping frantically right about now. In addition to getting a bit too excited about the inner workings of the EU, I have managed to pick up most Estonian pleasantries, vowels, and a couple of verbs. The Russian is going much slower, but it would probably help if I had the text. Woops. That might be tomorrow's project, along with filling out my impossible residence permit papers that asked me a multitude of questions about my family's secret service and military history. A bitter aftertaste of Soviet dominance perhaps? In any case, it will all shake out in the end.

In other interesting news, I, who abhor all physical activity taking place in the cold, have taken up skating. There is a wonderful little outdoor skating rink about ten minutes from my front door called "Uisuplats" where you can rent skates and twirl your way around the ice with the shadow of St. Nicholas' Church behind you and twinkle lights strung in the trees. Since I haven't skated since I was maybe nine, I thought that the first time I went it would be a complete disaster. But! I either have a knack for skating or it's like riding a bike. Two times gone, two times tumble free. It was also National Sledding Day here a few days ago and most of the foreign students gathered together at "Lauluvaljak" or "Singing Square" for some good old fashioned, sitting on a garbage bag in lieu of a real sled, sledding. If I had nickel for how many times I narrowly escaped death, I wouldn't have a loan anymore. I think every person in Tallinn, sometime during the day, made an appearance at this hill, which is also on song festival grounds (incidentally how Estonians gained their freedom, during a "Singing Revolution"). It was a truly great day and for the first time in my entire life (because I loathed the cold as a child), I am enjoying outdoor winter sport. Hell just froze over. Did you hear that?

Now after the wholesome talk, we will take a moment to bow our heads for the amazing Estonian nightlife that I have come to fully partake in, which is really unlike me. I have learned thus far, that for European ERASMUS students, these exchanges are meant for a well rounded education in how to party, in addition to economics or politics. Every weekend is filled up with this or that party, and they are really worth going to. There have been a few places I wouldn't care to go back to but for the most part the clubbing is exceptional. Good music, safe environment, and open until the wee, wee hours of the morning. Also on the menu are a list of pubs that, for this East Coast Canadian, could rival any Haligonian Pub. Molly Malone's for soccer and a beer or for live music and Irish coffee. Hell Hunt for delicious pub fare including dumplings and meatballs as well as your favourite drafts. Really, for such a small city, you could find something for every one and find plenty of time to enjoy it.

But I don't just drink. I've also revived my long lost verve for cooking. That's right, I referred to cooking in a positive manner. I've attempted and been relatively successful at bruschetta, beef stew, not burning chicken, roasted vegetable and feta salad, among other things. It started as a housewarming party issue where I needed to bring something edible and now has become a way of giving the possibility of getting scurvy the finger. That's right! No scurvy for me. I can cook. Kind of.

Lastly, the temperature dipped again today so that the hairs inside your nose would have frost on them if you were here. I'm actually starting to enjoy the weather. It's becoming refreshing.

Anyway, my writer's block decided to clear at 1am and so now I can hear my bed calling to me. Until next time, keep fit and have fun.

Shopoholic Takes Tallinn

Many shopping centres= utter mayhem and excessive shoppers guilt. It's day 9 of my Estonian adventure and I, the one carrying many shopping bags, have not only seen the sights but also the inside of every available shopping centre in the city. For the most part I've been able to restrain myself. I've only purchased a few frivolities aside from any necessities, but, I nonetheless feel like I've purchased too much (presents for my family, going out clothing because I brought only casual wear which isn't my fault because that's all I own, and one rather expensive tube of toothpaste). I haven't really over spent, but since every time I spend something I go further into the negative (not to mention the stomach awash was nerves and churning with guilt), I really ought not to spend much.

The problem is, and in fact the problem always has been, that I find shopping therapeutic. There's something very comforting about the sense of uniformity and anonymity found in shopping malls that seems to calm my very soul. Which religion am I, you ask? Why, I am of course an ardent follower of the consumerist lifestyle! My places of worship are the Temples of Mammon which in Tallinn, are nicely juxtaposed with the Temples of God. And you?

The worst part is, I know what I'm doing. Each time I slide the little red card, time worn with scratches on the surface, across the gleaming black countertop to the smiling sales clerk, I can hear my father's disapproving voice as if it were coming from the shop's speakers. "Noelle, you don't NEED that!" But, alas, it's too late. I silently scrawl my signature in shame and tuck my parcel inside my giant bag of tricks otherwise known as a purse. "Too bad," I mutter to my speaker-bound father and I scuttle furtively out of the shop.

If the habit was bad in Canada, it's far worse in Estonia. New stores, handicrafts, amber, coffee, oh my! Not to mention the delicious cakes and meals available at my beck and call. But really, though, I haven't been doing that badly. In fact I might even be doing rather well. The larger items such as a mobile phone and glasses have both been necessary and budget options and everything else has been on sale. The one thing that may have been a bit excessive might be the fact that since being here I've purchased my weight in black tea. I can't live without the stuff. It's a great match to the best eclairs I've ever eaten available at Reval Cafe.

I write this as I sit in yet another shopping centre. But, it's snowing rather heavily outside so it's ok I think. Oh wait. Look! There's a sale at Zara...